FALL 2000
While there are many
factors that influence grape quality, of primary importance
is the quantity of grapes on the vine. A grower will happily
cooperate on many viticultural issues of concern that influence
wine quality, such as irrigation practices or leaf pulling to
expose the grapes to more sun. But when it comes to controlling
the yield of grapes, money is the only thing that will move
a grower to do the right thing.
Each year after the harvest
is complete, California's Department of Food and Agriculture
publishes a report of every individual purchase of grapes by
price and tonnage within the state. Wineries are not identified,
but it is easy to find one's own purchases in the report. When
I mentioned to Helen that we paid the highest price in the state
for pinot noir in 1999, and that we paid either the highest
or nearly the highest price locally for every other grape variety
we bought in San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, and Ventura Counties,
she was not impressed. I 'll admit I was dismayed as well. On
the surface it appears we are being fleeced. But in order to
obtain the best grapes possible, we have to be willing to pay
growers generously to ensure smaller yields.
Many growers and winemakers
I've talked to try to justify larger crops with the "balanced
vine" theory of viticulture. Proponents of this theory believe
a vigorously growing vine puts too much of its energy into producing
leaves, and not enough into the grapes. The grapes from such
a vine will lack flavor because the vine was too busy working
on leaf production. To get the vine back in balance, one prunes
it so it will produce a huge quantity of grapes, which causes
the vine to put its vigor into ripening those grapes rather
than producing leaves. This actually works great if the aim
is to make a better $10 bottle of wine.
However, if you are aspiring
beyond the ordinary, there are other methods to counteract vigorous
growth besides loading the vines up with a large crop. A balanced
vine is important, but this theory rejects the notion that quality
and yield are closely tied together.
From personal experience
over the last twenty years, I disagree, so instead, at The Ojai
Vineyard, we look for vineyards located on poor soils or in
extremely windy and cool spots that naturally limit vigorous
growth and yields. In more fertile places, where we need to
control growth, we have found that water deprivation and aggressive
vine trimming can work well in keeping a vine's growth in balance
with smaller crops.
Your best shot at making
a profound wine is to start with grapes from a very low-yielding
vineyard. This approach is expensive, but if you consistently
want to make special wines, you really have no choice.
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