2008
CHARDONNAY BIEN NACIDO
Santa Maria Valley
Some people get the wrong
idea when I talk about making wines with better balance. It doesn't
mean the wines are going to be thin and insipid, and this chardonnay
illustrates how pleasurable wines of balance can be. Our 2008
Bien Nacido is wildly aromatic, with pear and coconut notes, and
despite having seriously high acidity, it comes across on the
palate as rich and generous, a character I attribute to the vineyard's
age, a mature 37 years. Older vineyards are thought to give wines
more length and intensity, and this is clearly the case here.
We often have felt that this chardonnay can be a bit too much
and have worked over the years to tip the balance away from excess
and to avoid having the flavors too cloying. Since 2000, we have
fermented and aged the wine in exclusively older French oak barrels
to avoid the distraction and heaviness of new wood flavors, and
we pick the grapes at reasonable sugars to keep the wine crisp
and the alcohol in check. I think this one really works!