2005 SYRAH BIEN NACIDO
Santa Maria Valley

It is hard to describe this wine because it breaks all the rules; in fact, it teaches the lesson that there really are no rules. Decades ago I believed that a wine type should have a particular acidity level and pH and if they were not correct, one adjusted them. I realized this logic was wrong back in 1989 when Jim Clendenen and I made a chardonnay from Rancho Vinedo. By the numbers, it seemed slightly deficient in acidity, so I added a little grape (tartaric) acid during its barrel fermentation.

As it turned out, Bob Lindquist also got a batch of the same grapes but made the wine without added acid. After harvest, when we tried the two wines together, it became obvious to me that Bob's wine was delicious while the added acid in our wine stuck out like a sore thumb. Despite a decade of winemaking experience, until then, I hadn't figured out that I shouldn't rely on numbers.

Although unmanipulated in any way, this Bien Nacido syrah is wrong as far as numbers go--it is too high in acidity and too high in alcohol, but the aroma and flavors are truly fantastic. From its near black color, you can tell you're in for a mouthful, but it's surprising how balanced this large-scale wine is. The aroma grabs you with an appealing toasty quality which is quickly overwhelmed by luxurious dark-plum fruitiness, and then finishes with a strong peppery, floral brightness. The flavor is so concentrated and rich, yet it feels light on the palate because of the wine's juicy acidity. This special and delicious wine is ready to enjoy now, and it will continue to evolve for at least a decade more.